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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2017 8:22:12 GMT 10
Found a couple hundred bucks laying around in the "I know forgot to order this slush fund"....soooooo. Billet Intake Manifold (with boost bottle shown - I have mine polished and ready):  Pyramid Reed Blocks: 6 reed petals per cage (this is a non conventional reed layout that utilizes all sides of the reedblock/cages to allow more reeds which translates into varying elasticity and rigidity of the reeds). This allows for maximum power and crank scavenging across the entire rev range (acts like a super charger of sorts in concert with the expansion chambers sonic pulses)  It is getting there. Bit by bit...... Thanks for taking this ride with me! DG |
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Post by crazybollox on Apr 5, 2017 12:14:30 GMT 10
Found a couple hundred bucks laying around in the "I know forgot to order this slush fund"....soooooo. Billet Intake Manifold (with boost bottle shown - I have mine polished and ready): Pyramid Reed Blocks: 6 reed petals per cage (this is a non conventional reed layout that utilizes all sides of the reedblock/cages to allow more reeds which translates into varying elasticity and rigidity of the reeds). This allows for maximum power and crank scavenging across the entire rev range (acts like a super charger of sorts in concert with the expansion chambers sonic pulses) It is getting there. Bit by bit...... Thanks for taking this ride with me! DG Interesting reed's there Mr Grey !!! |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2017 15:21:19 GMT 10
Found a couple hundred bucks laying around in the "I know forgot to order this slush fund"....soooooo. Billet Intake Manifold (with boost bottle shown - I have mine polished and ready): Pyramid Reed Blocks: 6 reed petals per cage (this is a non conventional reed layout that utilizes all sides of the reedblock/cages to allow more reeds which translates into varying elasticity and rigidity of the reeds). This allows for maximum power and crank scavenging across the entire rev range (acts like a super charger of sorts in concert with the expansion chambers sonic pulses) It is getting there. Bit by bit...... Thanks for taking this ride with me! DG Interesting reed's there Mr Grey !!! Gray !! Whatever. Its a color. Happens to be the Scotch spelling.... splitting hairs. Best to ya Gary! |
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Post by Jubby on Apr 7, 2017 6:11:48 GMT 10
Tell me more about the boost bottle mr gray?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2017 7:06:11 GMT 10
Oh Dale.......... The principal of the boost bottle is to allow air/fuel mix to linger in a stable location when you back out of off the throttle, the excess fuel/air mixture is fed into the bottle and when the throttle is opened again, the mixture is just sucked from the bottle and doesn't have to reatomize. It is a minor improvement, but the value is that it is linked to both carb boots equalizing vacuum and forms an airtight seal to prevent "accidental" air induction lean out. Many 2T use a balance pipe between the car intake boots to equalize pressure and fuel/air "balance" and store some atomized air/fuel. This large bottle just takes the volume and increases it by around 250% than the small balance pipe which means ....less bog, more power. Why is it a good thing? As the engine draws fuel and air in through the carburetor on the intake cycle, the spark plug fires this mixture forcing the piston down and forcing a small amount of leftover air/fuel back into the the carburetor. As the air and fuel mix is forced back through the carburetor and intake manifold, it causes a double rich mixture which can result in a rough idle and hesitation. Primarily, the leftover air/fuel mixture, already burnt from the previous cycle which provides little or no oxygen, is cycled back to the next intake cycle resulting in bogging/ sluggish throttle response. Notice that it is directly in line with the combustion intake not the carb (this mixture does not pass through the carb, therefore it is sucked directly into the combustion chamber) What it Does:To take advantage of the leftover air/fuel mixture, the Boost Bottle provides storage for this "pre-atomized air/fuel mixture" or the leftover air/fuel mixture, leaving the intake cycle fresh and un-burnt and ready to be gulped efficiently. As the piston makes it next cycle and draws a new fuel and air supply into the cylinder, the "pre-atomized air/fuel mixture" that is stored in the bottle returns to the engine as a burst, forcing the atomized fuel into the engine. In result, the boost bottle provides a "boost" or supercharge effect in engine performance. A boost bottle works best at lower and mid-range rpm and when you are on & off the throttle. The advantage is that it brings up the horsepower and torque in the bottom of the rpm range, to mid-way through the power band (reducing bogging). What is inside a Boost Bottle?
Nothing - Only air/fuel atomized fumes enter the bottle, not liquid gas or mechanical devices. This vs This AND THEN THIS!   
Happy tuning. DG |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2017 7:43:46 GMT 10
Dale. Your solenoids basically provide this function but in a smaller package by super atomizing the air/fuel at high RPM which in theory will give you better top end performance. I hear this is a debatable topic and some threads I have read up on on the RS and RGV have opted to remove the air solenoid and use air tight plugs on the boots to avoid air induction lean out.
I have also read others have bypassed the solenoids true function and opted to control a 16 to 18 gram Nitros Oxide injection kit. (NO - do not do this please!!!)
Happy tuning,
Dennis Gray
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Post by crazybollox on Apr 10, 2017 6:23:01 GMT 10
Dale. Your solenoids basically provide this function but in a smaller package by super atomizing the air/fuel at high RPM which in theory will give you better top end performance. I hear this is a debatable topic and some threads I have read up on on the RS and RGV have opted to remove the air solenoid and use air tight plugs on the boots to avoid air induction lean out. I have also read others have bypassed the solenoids true function and opted to control a 16 to 18 gram Nitros Oxide injection kit. (NO - do not do this please!!!) Happy tuning, Dennis Gray Ok - so Nitrous oxide it is !!!!!!!!!! |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2017 0:55:59 GMT 10
Dale. Your solenoids basically provide this function but in a smaller package by super atomizing the air/fuel at high RPM which in theory will give you better top end performance. I hear this is a debatable topic and some threads I have read up on on the RS and RGV have opted to remove the air solenoid and use air tight plugs on the boots to avoid air induction lean out. I have also read others have bypassed the solenoids true function and opted to control a 16 to 18 gram Nitros Oxide injection kit. (NO - do not do this please!!!) Happy tuning, Dennis Gray Ok - so Nitrous oxide it is !!!!!!!!!! Oh...most definately. See posting in General Discussion. Nitros... boom goes the 2T |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2017 4:08:01 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2017 4:15:55 GMT 10
Lectron carbs arrived. As i discussed my "needs" with the president of Lectron, we decided on 34mm powerjet carbs with oil injector nozzles and clear float bowls. The carbs were made to order based on the specs of this build. The Lectron folks pulled raw bodies, machined and mocked them up for wet testing. This involves running fluids through the carbs while simulating altitude from 850+ sea level through 4300 ft+ sea level. This is the altitude range this bike will see on any given day. When I take her to a location outside that range, fine tuning is done by swapping out the metering bar. Thats it. 3 screws, a tool to pull the bar and swap with a +/- metering bar to optimize fueling. I am advised that the set up they applied will not require any adjustment other than a 1/4 turn +/- to set the idle. Very cool. This and the selectable timing maps via the zeel will be fantastic.     |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2017 7:08:18 GMT 10
Layout. Chassis bits.  |
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Post by fz8kansas on Apr 20, 2017 0:32:46 GMT 10
Oh Dale.......... The principal of the boost bottle is to allow air/fuel mix to linger in a stable location when you back out of off the throttle, the excess fuel/air mixture is fed into the bottle and when the throttle is opened again, the mixture is just sucked from the bottle and doesn't have to reatomize. It is a minor improvement, but the value is that it is linked to both carb boots equalizing vacuum and forms an airtight seal to prevent "accidental" air induction lean out. Many 2T use a balance pipe between the car intake boots to equalize pressure and fuel/air "balance" and store some atomized air/fuel. This large bottle just takes the volume and increases it by around 250% than the small balance pipe which means ....less bog, more power. Why is it a good thing? As the engine draws fuel and air in through the carburetor on the intake cycle, the spark plug fires this mixture forcing the piston down and forcing a small amount of leftover air/fuel back into the the carburetor. As the air and fuel mix is forced back through the carburetor and intake manifold, it causes a double rich mixture which can result in a rough idle and hesitation. Primarily, the leftover air/fuel mixture, already burnt from the previous cycle which provides little or no oxygen, is cycled back to the next intake cycle resulting in bogging/ sluggish throttle response. Notice that it is directly in line with the combustion intake not the carb (this mixture does not pass through the carb, therefore it is sucked directly into the combustion chamber) What it Does:To take advantage of the leftover air/fuel mixture, the Boost Bottle provides storage for this "pre-atomized air/fuel mixture" or the leftover air/fuel mixture, leaving the intake cycle fresh and un-burnt and ready to be gulped efficiently. As the piston makes it next cycle and draws a new fuel and air supply into the cylinder, the "pre-atomized air/fuel mixture" that is stored in the bottle returns to the engine as a burst, forcing the atomized fuel into the engine. In result, the boost bottle provides a "boost" or supercharge effect in engine performance. A boost bottle works best at lower and mid-range rpm and when you are on & off the throttle. The advantage is that it brings up the horsepower and torque in the bottom of the rpm range, to mid-way through the power band (reducing bogging). What is inside a Boost Bottle?
Nothing - Only air/fuel atomized fumes enter the bottle, not liquid gas or mechanical devices. This vs This AND THEN THIS!
Happy tuning. DG Knowing what little I do, but have read, it seems to me that depending on which system you use, air injection, cross over tube or boost bottle will have some impact on your expansion chamber design, as they are responsible for the creating the low pressure wave that is suppose to draw the last of the spent gases out so the combustion chamber can fill with a fresh charge. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 26, 2017 0:54:18 GMT 10
Bit the bullet and ordered expansion chambers. Unfortunately they take 5-6 weeks; being a specialized bit. JL expansion chambers - Fast from the past. Opted to go with the Raw finish for a high temp clear coating to show off that weld porn. I feel like carbon fiber would be out of place on this build so I opted for the polished stainless tips which I like quite a bit.    |
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Post by Jubby on Apr 26, 2017 18:14:50 GMT 10
Bit the bullet and ordered expansion chambers. Unfortunately they take 5-6 weeks; being a specialized bit. JL expansion chambers - Fast from the past. Opted to go with the Raw finish for a high temp clear coating to show off that weld porn. I feel like carbon fiber would be out of place on this build so I opted for the polished stainless tips which I like quite a bit. They are beautiful...good choice |
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Post by Camo on Apr 26, 2017 19:43:53 GMT 10
I concur..look great!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2017 15:06:57 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2017 12:03:26 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2017 0:41:18 GMT 10
Starting to reseble a badass machine. Some assemble, tweekimg and 6 weels till expansion chambers arrive from the builder.
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2017 0:46:40 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2017 3:25:50 GMT 10
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